Monday, 26 March 2012

Liechtenstein: Vaduz

As our route from Switzerland to Austria would take us near they tiny principality of Liechtenstein, we thought it would be fun to stop in for a few hours and check it out.  We took the train to Buchs, the last Swiss town before the border, which is in the same mountain valley as Liechtenstein.  From there we caught the "Liechtenstein Bus" to Schaan (the biggest town), then to Vaduz, the capital.  

The principality is the last remnant of the once-vast Holy Roman Empire.  It has close ties to Switzerland, and uses the Swiss Franc as its currency (although they generally also accept Euros).  The capital, Vaduz, is a fairly modern town, although it does have some older buildings such as Vaduz castle (or schloss in German) and some of the houses.  It is a major global banking and commerce city, with lots of bank buildings in town.  

Liechtenstein has developed into a highly industrialized, prosperous, free enterprise economy since WWII.  This quote from the Liechtenstein Wikitravel page paints a funny picture in my head: "Shortcomings in banking regulatory oversight have resulted in concerns about the use of the financial institutions for money laundering and tax evasion. However, the days of bringing suitcases of money into banks for deposit without questions asked is over".  I just imagine someone hiking over the mountain pass from Austria with a suitcase full of cash! The principality is known for its extremely low tax rates: the current base rate for personal income tax stands at just 1.2%.

One of the many banks in downtown Vaduz. 

Public timekeeping devices, provided by Rolex. 

Liechtenstein, since becoming an independent state in 1806, has never been actively involved in an armed conflict, and the citizens see their flag as a banner of peace. There are currently 33,000 people in a territory of just 160 km2 (making it bigger than Monaco or San Marino, however).  Vaduz itself only has about 5,000 people.  You could drive from on end of the country to the other in less than an hour, I'd wager. Most people live along the Rhine Valley, and the rest of the country is very mountainous.  The entire eastern border with Austria is only passable by foot.  The language of business here is German, however an Alemannic (German) dialect is spoken at home.  The system of government is a constitutional monarchy, and the Prince and his family live in Schloss Vaduz, on a hill overlooking the city.  Liechtenstein is part of the European Economic Area, however, like Switzerland, it is not part of the EU.  There are very few foreigners in Liechtenstein, and those that are are primarily Austrian or Swiss. 

Schloss Vaduz.

You can see part of the castle up on the hill, to the left.

Schloss Vaduz, overlooking the town of Vaduz.

Schloss Vaduz, seen from the vineyards.

We spent about 2 hours in the city itself, visiting the Cathedral, the stamp museum, and walking around the city centre and the older district.  The streets are very quiet, and are a mix of ancient buildings and modern offices. You can see the austere castle from most parts of the town, however it is closed to the public.  What surprised me were the small vineyards within the city limits.  We would later see this in many towns in the Alps.    In the winter they don't look like much - just the twigs of the vines, but in the summer I think they'd be quite beautiful. 
The cathedral.


 Gargoyles!


The main street in Vaduz.  On the left is the new art museum, and further down you can see the spire of the old cathedral.







The Liechtenstein flag.


 Vinyards in winter.

The tiny ruins of a watchtower or castle, on a hill overlooking Vaduz.

Switzerland: Lucerne

From Zurich, we took a short train ride to Lucerne, also known as Luzern  in German or Lozärn in Swiss German.  The ticket inspector checked our rail passes, which also must be accompanied by your passport to prove the ticket is in your name.  Every time they do this in Switzerland I get a laugh out of the inspector - my last name, Schweitzer, is pronounced the same as Schweizer, which is the German translation of the adjective "Swiss".  "So your a Schweitzer traveling in Switzerland, chuckle...chuckle...".  I suppose it has to do with an ancestor who moved from Switzerland to Austria or Germany, and got his last name because he was known as "the Schweizer". 

Lucerne is a beautiful town of 60,000 people, nestled in the heartland of Switzerland.  It was here that the first Swiss Confederation was formed in 1291.  The landscape here is the "most typically Swiss", according to my guide book.  Clear blue lakes, in the shadow of snow-capped Alps and surrounded by green pastures in the summer.  The town straddles the Reuss river, and extends a bit around Lake Lucerne.  There is a lovely medieval district, and a city wall with watchtowers divides the old town from the more modern developments.  

The most famous feature of the town is the Kapellbrüke, a covered wooden bridge built in 1333 across the river.  Along the length of the long bridge are a series of medieval wood paintings.

Lake Lucerne.


The Kappelbrüke bridge.




One of the wood paintings along the bridge.



The train station (hauptbanhof).








For dinner we decided to splurge on fondue, after 3 days of living off the Food Bag.  This national dish is made of a melted blend of cheese, heated with white wine over a little flame.  And of course, delicious Swiss bread.


 Many beautiful painted buildings in the old town. 


The next morning, we woke up to the biggest snowflakes I've ever seen.   Everything was covered in the damp snow (which made it perfect for snowball fights...). 





 
 
The old town wall.








Dairy cows by the city wall.


 A tin knight watches out over the town.








 

At noon, we caught a train heading east to Buchs, a small town on the border with the tiny principality of Liechtenstein.  Here are some photos from the train ride: