Sunday, 15 January 2012

Morocco: Marrakech

When I found out I would be going on exchange, I was really looking forward to having the time and the opportunity to explore Europe.  I never imagined it would also included a chance to travel to Africa!  Jen and Jordan had planned a trip to Morocco, and as I was planning on being in the Iberian peninsula the same week they invited me to tag along.   Marrakech, one of the big tourist destinations in Morocco, is only about 1.5 hours from Barcelona, and the flights only cost about 60€.  I was also able to get a direct flight back to Lyon, so crossing the Straight of Gibraltar actually seemed pretty reasonable, especially compared to the time and expense involved in organizing a trip from Canada.  

Our first day in Morocco, we explored the city with the help of a guide recommended by the hotel.  Guided tours are a great way to go, as you really need a car to get around the city and a tour is very reasonably priced.  
Wide streets, with very little traffic (although we were there during a holiday).  

The first place we went to was the Jardins Majorelles.  Most place names, street signs and other written materials are in French, one of the official languages.  Most people speak French, which was really convenient.  The other languages spoken are Arabic and Berber (also the two main ethnic groups).  The Jardins are a beautiful desert oasis, with cacti interspersed with flowering vines and palm trees.  There is a small shrine there for Yves Saint Laurent, the recently deceased French fashion designer who was born in French Algeria and had a house on the property he eventually donated to the Jardins.

Jardins Majorelles



Next we went to the old Royal Palace.  Morocco is a monarchy, although this palace hasn't been occupied for a long time.   It is quite different from European palaces, with a rather plain exterior and only one floor.  The lack of furniture allowed the incredible craftsmanship on the ceilings and doorways to shine, which really made the rooms come alive.  The absence of grand galleries and reception rooms made it seem much more comfortable and personal.  

The Royal Palace.





Jordan in the Royal Palace.  

It was  actually kind of chilly in Morocco - I was comfortable wearing jeans and a T-shirt.




 
There were several small courtyards in the palace, with well-tended gardens.

Incredible craftsmanship.  There are Star of David motifs carved into this ceiling.  The carpenters who designed this room were Jewish, like ~10% of the current population.  The Medina (the old city) used to have whole streets occupied by Jewish families, but since WWII many have immigrated to Isreal, France, Canada, or the US.  We also drove past a Catholic Church, located across the street from a mosque.  This gave me the impression that although every Moroccan is officially Muslim, there is a decent amount of religious freedom.  

We visited a herbalist's shop, across the street from the palace.  Herbalists here sell a variety of spices, perfumes, ointments, and medicinal substances made here in Morocco.  This shop was a real feast for the senses, the walls covered with jar of colourful and fragrant powders and canvas bags of whole spices on the floor.  This shop is run by a foundation that supports battered women and divorcées, and gives them a place to work.  Two of the women gave us a demonstration, and boy did everything smell fantastic!  All three of us picked up a bag of "35 spices", which smells amazing and is supposedly adored by poor cooks because it can make anything taste good.    

Bags of unprocessed spices at the herbalist's shop.  

There is a local remedy in one of those jars for every ailment you could have!

We drove to just outside the city, within view of the Middle Atlas Mountains.  Marrakech is located in a desert, although not the sandy Sahara, which starts on the other side of the High Atlas Mountains.  We passed a few small Berber villages, they make up about 40% of the population of Morocco.

All three of us agreed this was our favourite experience of our short stay in Morocco - camel rides!  Technically, they're called dromedaries, because they only have one hump.  The number of humps varies based on the climate - warmer countries, like Egypt, will have camels with two humps.  Just outside the city there are groups of camels along the side of the road, which you can hire for a short 30 minute ride with a guide.  The camels were actually quite comfortable to ride, although a bit difficult to get on and off of!  Thy kneel down, but that process is not the most comfortable for a rider. Most prices are negotiable in Morocco (you are expected to haggle in the market, not to is considered rude), so we ended up going with the equivalent of 10 € for 30 minutes (1 dirham = 11 €).  I especially liked when we ran for a little bit, very exhilarating.  

Jordan on "Michael Jackson" and Jen on "Shakira" in the desert, just outside the city.





Baby camel!

A large house, or Riad, we rode past.


Horse-drawn cart.  We saw lots of these on the highways, pulled by tiny, thin horses or donkeys.  Motorized bicycles are also very popular, and there are some European cars on the road.   

We stopped by one of the largest mosques in the city, which was located next to a large public garden.  

In front of one of the main mosques in the city.  The megaphones in the tower announce the call to prayer, five times a day.  

A convenient sticker on the desk in the hotel room (Muslims face towards Mecca when they pray).


I love this doorway!  Side door to the mosque.

Expansive public gardens across the street. 

Our last stop was the Medina, or old city.  It is surrounded by a wall with 13 doors, built 700 years ago.  There are holes in the walls for the installation of scaffolding for when it needs to be repaired. 

Medina wall.  The holes are to attach scaffolding.  The red flag with a green star can be seen in the middle of every roundabout in the city (they don't have traffic lights).

In the middle of the Medina is Jemaa al Fna square.  This huge open marketplace was the site of a serious bombing in April, which killed several tourists.  Groups of snake charmers and fortune tellers sat under umbrellas to shade them from the sun.  Women did their shopping in the market alone or in groups, although there were certainly more men outside than women.  Many people wore the ankle-length robe with a pointed hood, and traditional pointed slippers.  One of the most entertaining things to see was live (and sometimes very feisty) sheep being unloaded from the roofs of vans and from donkey carts, everywhere we went.  The next day was the first day of Eid, the religious holiday, where each family sacrifices (at least one) sheep.  The king kills his on television at 10 am, then everyone else does. 

Snake charmers take shelter from the sun in Jemaa al Fna.

Monkey tamer, with the typical long robe with a pointed hood.  It was kind of sad to see the monkeys in cages.

Donkey cart and motorbikes.

The sheep's new owner carrying him home in a hand cart. 

People seemed to either dress in athletic wear or ankle-lenth robes. 

The market was incredibly colourful, especially the stands selling dried fruit.  I really enjoyed my snack of apricots!  There is also a tourist market, where our guide told us to bargain down to at least 50% of the asking price.  Jen and I had fun bartering for our matching scarves.  

Fruit stands.

Tourist market.  Lots of colourful fabrics.

After an exciting day of exploring the city, we headed back to our hotel, across the street from the Opera.  Beautiful view of the sunset over the city. 

Our hotel.

The Opera.  

Sunset over the city.  

Spain: Barcelona

After a lovely few days in Lisbon, I flew back to Barcelona.  I got to the city at around midnight, and unfortunately I had directions to get to my friend Jen's apartment using the metro, which for some reason had closed earlier than usual that day.  Luckily I spotted a bus and managed to communicate to the bus driver (who didn't speak English - my Catalán is non-existent and my Spanish far too rudimentary!) where Jen's apartment was.  I had to switch buses and I eventually made it to Jen's 2 hours late.  

It was really nice to stay at an apartment for once - it's more of a home base and easier to cook in than a hostel, plus you know everyone there.  Jen was sharing a flat with 3 other exchange students at ESADE, the top business school in Spain.  It was in a fairly nice neighbourhood, with a great view of the city and decently close to the main attractions.  Barcelona has a great metro, which is (normally!) open fairly late in the evening and all night on Friday and Saturday.  People are usually coming home from the club at 6 or 7 in the morning (many don't open until 1 am), when other people are just heading to work.  If you plan on visiting Barcelona you will almost certainly be using the metro as the attractions are fairly far apart, and it's cheap and easy to use.

Jen had to go to class, so I set out on my own to Monestir de Montserrat, the holiest place in Catalonia (an autonomous region in Spain that includes Barcelona).  It's name means "serrated mountain", and is a collection of chapels and hermits' caves clinging on to the side of the mountain.  It is located about 45 minutes from Barcelona by train.  The best way to get up to the monastery from the train station is by cable car, which usually gives you incredible views.  Unfortunately, the day I went was very rainy and foggy, so I didn't see much of anything!  Lesson learned: when planning a trip to Montserrat, always check the weather report first!

The monastery's roots date back to the 11th century, and was a beacon of Catalán culture during the Franco dictatorship.  The monastery is currently inhabited by Benedictine monks, and has a famous choir.  One of the attractions of the mountain is going on a hike along the "Way of the Cross" that winds around the mountain, but I decided that wasn't such a good idea when I couldn't see 10 feet in front of me because of the fog.  

The cable car, the most exciting way to reach the monastery from the train station below (during a rare break in the fog).

The cable car station at the top of the mountain, and the Abyss!

Literally in a cloud.  

Inside the church. 

Incredible carvings up this staircase.  The red rope is for the queue to see the Virgin of Montserrat, a small wooden statue said to have been made by St. Luke and brought to the mountain by St. Peter in 50 A.D.  During the Moorish period it is said to have been hidden in a cave nearby.  Although carbon dating suggests it was carved around the 12th century, pilgrims still wait in line to touch the globe in Mary's hand, and it is also the patroness of Catalonia. 

The Virgin of Montserrat, 'La Moreneta'.  Pilgrims can touch the wooden globe in her hand.  The shine was absolutely stunning, with byzantine gold tiling and mosaics.

By the time I had left the church the clouds had cleared a bit, so it was possible to take a few pictures of the Monastery, which is actually quite a large complex.



Back in Barcelona, I spent the afternoon exploring the eclectic Barri Gòtic, or Gothic Quarter.  This is the heart of the city,  founded by the Romans during the reign of Augustus (27 BC-14 AD).  There are still a few Roman buildings, and the most extensive subterranean Roman ruins in the world.  

Barcelona Cathedral.  

Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar.  This is the only remaining Catalán Gothic-style church, and has an extraordinarily wide nave (the main part of the church).  Construction was completed in just 55 years, unrivalled in the Middle Ages.  A consequence of this speed was that it was basically built all in the same style - when it takes several hundred years to build a church the designs are often changed to suit current tastes.

Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar.  The rose window dates from the 15th century.


Tapas restaurant near the Basilica.

These buildings were on the courtyard facing the entrance to the Basilica.

Barcelona is known as the capital of Art-Nouveau architecture, and especially the buildings by Gaudi, which include the Sagrada Familia,  still under construction.  The best place to see these beautiful buildings is the Passieg de Gracia in the Quadrat d'Or, which is lined by fantastical houses built between 1900 and 1910.  There is also some very exclusive shopping on this street, including a Hermès store.  I wanted to take so many pictures on this street, but it was a bit hard to juggle a camera and an umbrella at the same time.  Apparently I was in Barcelona for the one rainy week they get each fall. 

House on Passeig de Gracia.








Gaudi designed a house on the Passeig de Gracia, Casa Battló, which is now open to the public.  Antoní Gaudi certainly left his mark on the city, having designed the Sagrada Familia, Park Guëll, and several houses and apartment buildings.  This was one of the coolest buildings I have ever been - inspired by "under the sea", at times it felt like you were in a Hobbit's house in the Lord of the Rings or in a mermaid's home.  There wasn't a single straight line in the entire house.  Everything was stunningly beautiful, yet incredibly functional.

Casa Battó.  It's hard to see from the photograph, but the upper part of the building is covered in multicoloured tiling that glistens in the light.

The first floor- where the Battló family entertained friends and conducted business.

The stained glass windows looked different depend on what side of the door you were on.

The end of the stairwell - perfectly shaped to the human hand.




One of the two stairwells.

The attic: perhaps the most beautiful rooms in the house.  The rounded archways are a super-strong structure invented by Gaudi.




The roof-top.  The tiling was made of recycled tiles.  There was also an innovative water-collection and air circulation system.

An apartment building designed by Gaudi: "La Pedrera".  

The Sagrada Familia is probably the best known landmark in Barcelona, and my favourite place I visited in the city.  This was Gaudi's life's work, and he spent his last years living as a recluse on the construction site.  Started in 1882, the church is still under construction.  Where the Casa Battló seemed to be inspired by the sea, the Sagrada Familia reminded me of a forest, with the columns shooting towards the heavens like ancient redwoods.  The exterior is covered with symbols of nature and religion.  The Nativity Façade and Passion Façade have been completed, along with 8 of the 12 towers.  Most of the nave has been completed, but the central tower has yet to be built.  I would be interested to return to Barcelona when it is finally complete to see how it look!  The entrance fee is a bit steep (13€ I think) but that is the only source of funding for the ongoing construction, other than donations.

The Sagrada Familia, still under construction.











The last stop on my visit to Barcelona was Las Ramblas, one of the most famous streets in Spain, which goes all the way to the Mediterranean.  This is a fun place to walk, past tarot readers, street vendors, musicians, and several beautiful mansions and colourful food markets.

Las Ramblas.