Spain: Barcelona

After a lovely few days in Lisbon, I flew back to Barcelona.  I got to the city at around midnight, and unfortunately I had directions to get to my friend Jen's apartment using the metro, which for some reason had closed earlier than usual that day.  Luckily I spotted a bus and managed to communicate to the bus driver (who didn't speak English - my Catalán is non-existent and my Spanish far too rudimentary!) where Jen's apartment was.  I had to switch buses and I eventually made it to Jen's 2 hours late.  

It was really nice to stay at an apartment for once - it's more of a home base and easier to cook in than a hostel, plus you know everyone there.  Jen was sharing a flat with 3 other exchange students at ESADE, the top business school in Spain.  It was in a fairly nice neighbourhood, with a great view of the city and decently close to the main attractions.  Barcelona has a great metro, which is (normally!) open fairly late in the evening and all night on Friday and Saturday.  People are usually coming home from the club at 6 or 7 in the morning (many don't open until 1 am), when other people are just heading to work.  If you plan on visiting Barcelona you will almost certainly be using the metro as the attractions are fairly far apart, and it's cheap and easy to use.

Jen had to go to class, so I set out on my own to Monestir de Montserrat, the holiest place in Catalonia (an autonomous region in Spain that includes Barcelona).  It's name means "serrated mountain", and is a collection of chapels and hermits' caves clinging on to the side of the mountain.  It is located about 45 minutes from Barcelona by train.  The best way to get up to the monastery from the train station is by cable car, which usually gives you incredible views.  Unfortunately, the day I went was very rainy and foggy, so I didn't see much of anything!  Lesson learned: when planning a trip to Montserrat, always check the weather report first!

The monastery's roots date back to the 11th century, and was a beacon of Catalán culture during the Franco dictatorship.  The monastery is currently inhabited by Benedictine monks, and has a famous choir.  One of the attractions of the mountain is going on a hike along the "Way of the Cross" that winds around the mountain, but I decided that wasn't such a good idea when I couldn't see 10 feet in front of me because of the fog.  

The cable car, the most exciting way to reach the monastery from the train station below (during a rare break in the fog).

The cable car station at the top of the mountain, and the Abyss!

Literally in a cloud.  

Inside the church. 

Incredible carvings up this staircase.  The red rope is for the queue to see the Virgin of Montserrat, a small wooden statue said to have been made by St. Luke and brought to the mountain by St. Peter in 50 A.D.  During the Moorish period it is said to have been hidden in a cave nearby.  Although carbon dating suggests it was carved around the 12th century, pilgrims still wait in line to touch the globe in Mary's hand, and it is also the patroness of Catalonia. 

The Virgin of Montserrat, 'La Moreneta'.  Pilgrims can touch the wooden globe in her hand.  The shine was absolutely stunning, with byzantine gold tiling and mosaics.

By the time I had left the church the clouds had cleared a bit, so it was possible to take a few pictures of the Monastery, which is actually quite a large complex.

Back in Barcelona, I spent the afternoon exploring the eclectic Barri Gòtic, or Gothic Quarter.  This is the heart of the city,  founded by the Romans during the reign of Augustus (27 BC-14 AD).  There are still a few Roman buildings, and the most extensive subterranean Roman ruins in the world.  

Barcelona Cathedral.  

Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar.  This is the only remaining Catalán Gothic-style church, and has an extraordinarily wide nave (the main part of the church).  Construction was completed in just 55 years, unrivalled in the Middle Ages.  A consequence of this speed was that it was basically built all in the same style - when it takes several hundred years to build a church the designs are often changed to suit current tastes.

Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar.  The rose window dates from the 15th century.

Tapas restaurant near the Basilica.

These buildings were on the courtyard facing the entrance to the Basilica.

Barcelona is known as the capital of Art-Nouveau architecture, and especially the buildings by Gaudi, which include the Sagrada Familia,  still under construction.  The best place to see these beautiful buildings is the Passieg de Gracia in the Quadrat d'Or, which is lined by fantastical houses built between 1900 and 1910.  There is also some very exclusive shopping on this street, including a Hermès store.  I wanted to take so many pictures on this street, but it was a bit hard to juggle a camera and an umbrella at the same time.  Apparently I was in Barcelona for the one rainy week they get each fall. 

House on Passeig de Gracia.

Gaudi designed a house on the Passeig de Gracia, Casa Battló, which is now open to the public.  Antoní Gaudi certainly left his mark on the city, having designed the Sagrada Familia, Park Guëll, and several houses and apartment buildings.  This was one of the coolest buildings I have ever been - inspired by "under the sea", at times it felt like you were in a Hobbit's house in the Lord of the Rings or in a mermaid's home.  There wasn't a single straight line in the entire house.  Everything was stunningly beautiful, yet incredibly functional.

Casa Battó.  It's hard to see from the photograph, but the upper part of the building is covered in multicoloured tiling that glistens in the light.

The first floor- where the Battló family entertained friends and conducted business.

The stained glass windows looked different depend on what side of the door you were on.

The end of the stairwell - perfectly shaped to the human hand.

One of the two stairwells.

The attic: perhaps the most beautiful rooms in the house.  The rounded archways are a super-strong structure invented by Gaudi.

The roof-top.  The tiling was made of recycled tiles.  There was also an innovative water-collection and air circulation system.

An apartment building designed by Gaudi: "La Pedrera".  

The Sagrada Familia is probably the best known landmark in Barcelona, and my favourite place I visited in the city.  This was Gaudi's life's work, and he spent his last years living as a recluse on the construction site.  Started in 1882, the church is still under construction.  Where the Casa Battló seemed to be inspired by the sea, the Sagrada Familia reminded me of a forest, with the columns shooting towards the heavens like ancient redwoods.  The exterior is covered with symbols of nature and religion.  The Nativity Façade and Passion Façade have been completed, along with 8 of the 12 towers.  Most of the nave has been completed, but the central tower has yet to be built.  I would be interested to return to Barcelona when it is finally complete to see how it look!  The entrance fee is a bit steep (13€ I think) but that is the only source of funding for the ongoing construction, other than donations.

The Sagrada Familia, still under construction.

The last stop on my visit to Barcelona was Las Ramblas, one of the most famous streets in Spain, which goes all the way to the Mediterranean.  This is a fun place to walk, past tarot readers, street vendors, musicians, and several beautiful mansions and colourful food markets.

Las Ramblas.